I have no problem using other people’s art to pep up the blog and this is remarkably good. Apparently, with a pair of 3-D glasses on, it comes out even better. So effective is it that I resisted the temptation to post something from this afternoon’s football match, although Rochdale 2 Morecambe 4 was such an unexpected and pleasing result that the temptation was a strong one, I must admit.
A foggy morning, but fortunately not enough to delay us nor any of the others who were planning to leave Berlin this morning. Swissair’s service was in the gate next to ours: the BA flight was there too at this point, though unseen behind the ghost.
If I was more of an artist I would come up with some allegorical statement here, the heads appear as if they are flying — but really, they are trapped, objects displayed for the delectation of visitors to this museum, none of whom will care for more than a few fleeting moments, if at all. Then again if I were more of an artist I would dispense with these commentaries altogether; I did try it once, way back, but it never took. This is the Neues Museum in Berlin, by the way: our last full day here.
This memorial consists of 2,711 stone slabs — officially ‘stelae’ — of varying height arrayed across an acre of ground near the Brandenburg Gate: more land formerly occupied by a part of the Berlin Wall, in fact. For more, see this page. That’s three pictures out of four that highlight a less favourable element of this country’s history but at least they seem to be prepared to remember in public.
A trip out to the suburbs today: definitely not the former Communist blocks, more like leafy Hampstead or Carshalton (if this were London). Streets named after composers, big gardens and garages, that kind of thing. One thing I like about Berlin is that it’s all quite laid back: it certainly doesn’t have the over-energised manicness of some capital cities. Perhaps this shot captures that.
What was formerly East Berlin still retains a sense of the Communist era, particularly thanks to the rather uniform tower blocks that sprout over most of it. And then there’s the former HQ of the Stasi, the secret police (officially the Ministerium für Staatssicherheit). This is now a museum. And while it could do with a bit more technology and a bit less running through the basics of Cold War history one does come to appreciate what insidiously awful wankers they were, and also how it was all proppsed up by a wide network of informers and ‘voluntary’ agents. The Stasi wouldn’t just surveill you — if they thought you were in any way subversive they were quite prepared to engage in the systematic erosion of your personal and profesional identity, setting you up to fail, turning your friends against you and giving the truth to the old saying, ‘are you still paranoid if they really are out to get you?’. This equipment is displayed in the place where it was used, concealed in the walls of a washroom on the Ministerial floor of the building, and so being used to spy even on those at the very top of the Stasi. Not that we’re a great deal different now — it’s just all done digitally instead. Orwell was close enough.
Berlin is where we’ve come for a few days. This part of it has been much changed in the last 36 years, for up until 1989, the Berlin Wall ran right through here: there is a marker on the road near this point, with the former Checkpoint Charlie (now a magnet for tourists and hustlers alike) just off shot to the right: though this was only a small and relatively insignificant part of the border infrastructure at this point on Friedrichstrasse. Nowadays these displays of photographs and maps are all that remain. The Wall retains such a significant place in the memory of people my age (and I’m not even German) but it only lasted 28 and a bit years (August 1961 – October 1989): Joe will be that age soon enough.
Time for a holiday. This one at the instigation of the wife, for various reasons, but I am happy to tag along for the ride, and for the break. You can find out the destination tomorrow, although it’s somewhere the blog has visited before. As is Terminal 5 of Heathrow airport, where we and a few thousand others waited for the beginning of the fourth leg of our journey (after two trains and the Elizabeth Line).
I went for this shot because of the illuminated cup of hot beverage to the right, and I guess it works, but yes, I would like to take out the plug sockets.
Typical behaviour for the British climate — balmy weather on Saturday, revolting wintry crap the following Wednesday. I have to wipe off a layer of hail each time I come inside today. The blossoms bear it stoically.
Being 42 