Tag Archives: Moscow

Before the exam board, Moscow School of Social and Economic Sciences

Thursday 27th October 2011, 11.00am (day 63)

Moscow School colleagues, 27/10/11

My last morning in Moscow today – though I’m returning in 6 weeks. I post this while awaiting my flight back to Manchester in Heathrow’s terminal 5. (‘Sympathy for the Devil’ is on the stereo, which makes the wait more bearable.)

I realised I had got through all my time here without a single actual person (Russian or not) appearing in the pictures so tried to rectify that today. Russians are a paradox. When you don’t know them – the severe woman who checks in your coat or bag, the guy who approaches you and hassles you on the street – they can be phenomenally rude. But when you know or work with them they are among the friendliest and most helpful people I know. There is something deep in their national psyche that closes up to strangers, I guess, and you should feel privileged to be admitted to the bosom. It probably explains a lot about their national history.

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Monument to corporate failure, Prospekt Vernadskovo, Moscow

Wednesday 26th October 2011, 11.10am (day 62)

Academy of National Economy, 26/10/11

I use this today not because it’s a particularly great photo (although it’s not bad) but because the story behind it amuses me.

The place where I’m working this week rents space on the campus of this big university in Moscow, the Academy of National Economy (ANE), on Prospekt Vernadskovo to the south of the city centre. In the early-to-mid 1990s, after the fall of Communism, the World Bank and IMF tried a dose of ‘instant capitalism’ on Russia, demanding the country liberalise its whole economy almost overnight. The ANE had, and still has, one of the best campuses in the country, but an Italian company wanted to profit through this spanking new building, and under the new rules, it was virtually impossible to refuse them. So this vast glass palace was built – what you see here is barely a quarter of the whole.

However, there were two big problems. First, no one was allowed to question whether the new building was needed. Second, no one was allowed to establish whether the Italian company actually had the money and expertise to complete the job. Neither of these two things turned out to be true. The shell was finished, but nothing inside, and because the space was never actually needed, there was no revenue which then accrued to the developers in order to financially support them to finish it. They therefore went bankrupt before the job was done.

What makes it worse is that no one can now establish who owns this building. Until they do, it cannot be demolished. So there it has stood for 15 years, rotting away, a monument to corporate failure on this otherwise reasonably well-appointed campus, a huge carbuncle of glass, while the campus built by the Reds surrounds it and does its job quite happily, thank you very much.

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Cathedral of the Assumption, Kremlin, Moscow

Tuesday 25th October 2011, 11.20am (day 61)

Inside the Kremlin, 25/10/11_low-res

Propaganda cuts both ways. I can’t be the only person who grew up in the ‘West’ in the 1970s/1980s who became conditioned to think of the Kremlin as some gloomy, grey, dark castle of ill-omen. What we were never told is that, particularly at this time of year, when the trees have turned, it is all white, gold and beautiful.

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Arbat, Moscow

Monday 24th October 2011, 6.25pm (day 60)

Arbat, 24/10/11

The Arbat is like Hebden Bridge. You can amble around and pick up art or second-hand books or jewelry, but nothing very practical like medicine. But it is laid-back, which is unusual for Moscow.

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View from my hotel room, Moscow

Sunday 23rd October 2011, 10.15pm (day 59)

Hotel Ukrainia, 23/10/11

Looking out over the Moscow River (unseen in this shot) – this is the Hotel Ukrainia, one of the ‘Seven Sisters’, gothic skyscrapers built by Stalin (well, not personally) in the 40s and 50s. I’m in the Hotel Belgrad.

I always wanted a job where I could travel, right from being 16 or so. And now I have one, I’m glad enough, even if sometimes it seems a little excessive – I have 7 work trips abroad planned between now and mid-February (plus one personal one), and that does not even include trips within the UK.

But I think the chance to see how other cultures live, and realise that – unlike what the Daily Mail says, in its xenophobic little hate-fuelled way – Britain is not the centre of the world, are good things and has made me a better person, though others should be the real judge of that. Do I worry about the environmental impact? Yes… but I don’t own a car, so feel at least that I compensate in one way. Again, let others judge.

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